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FORD CAPRI'S, LIKE MOST MODERN CARS, SUFFER BADLY FROM CORROSION THOUGH FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE THE LEGENDARY CAPRI HAS PROBABLY LASTED BETTER THAN ITS CORTINA, GRANADA, ESCORT AND SIERRA MODELS OF A SIMILAR VINTAGE.

IF LOOKED AFTER WELL, THE OLD CAPRI'S' SHOULD BE ABLE TO DRIVE INTO THE NEW MILLENNIUM WITH THE GREATEST OF EASE BUT NOT EVERY OWNER IS IN A POSITION TO DEVOTE GREAT AMOUNTS OF TIME AND MONEY ON THEIR TRUSTY VEHICLE SO CONSEQUENTLY THE RAVAGES OF TIME WILL ULTIMATELY GET A GRIP SOONER RATHER THAN LATER. IT IS VERY EASY TO TURN A SHABBY, DULL EXAMPLE INTO A SHINY, REASONABLY CLEAN LOOKING MODEL WITH SOME ELBOW GREASE USING A GOOD QUALITY CAR POLISH AND PUTTING ON A SET OF ALLOY WHEELS, BUT IF YOU ARE LOOKING TO BUY A GOOD, SOUND EXAMPLE THEN THERE ARE A NUMBER OF AREAS ON THE CAR THAT REQUIRE TO BE SCRUTINISED TO SEE IF YOU ARE ACTUALLY GETTING A GOOD DEAL FOR YOUR MONEY.

FAILURE TO CHECK THE CAR PROPERLY COULD RESULT IN A FINANCIAL NIGHTMARE BECAUSE THE COSTS OF REPAIRS AND OBTAINING PARTS COULD ESCALATE OUT OF CONTROL MAKING ANY RESTORATION PROJECT TOTALLY NON-VIABLE RESULTING IN THE "FOOLISH" NEW OWNER HAVING TO TRY AND RECOUP SOME OF HIS MONEY THROUGH ADVERTISING IN THE SPARES AND REPAIRS SECTION OF HIS LOCAL AUTOTRADER MAGAZINE.

FURTHERMORE, THE CAR COULD BE A POTENTIAL "DEATHTRAP" AND AS WELL AS PUTTING YOUR OWN PERSONAL SAFETY ON THE LINE YOU MUST ALSO CONSIDER THE SAFETY OF OTHER ROADUSERS AND PEDESTRIANS WHO MAY INADVERTENTLY FALL FOUL OF YOUR NEGLIGENCE.

THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION SHOULD PROVE INVALUABLE NOT JUST FOR DEVOTED CAPRI ENTHUSIASTS BUT ALSO FOR ANY INDIVIDUAL THINKING OF BUYING A CAPRI FOR THE FIRST TIME.

 I WILL BEGIN BY LOOKING AT THE EXTERIOR OF THE CAR STARTING WITH THE BONNET. THE CAPRI IS RENOWNED FOR ITS LONG BONNET BUT IT IS FAIRLY COMMON TO WITNESS SEVERE CORROSION ALONG ITS LEADING EDGE WHICH CAN ULTIMATELY RESULT IN LARGE PIECES BREAKING OFF. THIS PROBLEM IS TRADITIONALLY CAUSED BY WATER AND MOISTURE GETTING TRAPPED AND ITS FAILURE TO ESCAPE CAUSES THE METAL TO WEAKEN.

IF THE BONNET ON YOUR CAR IS SOUND THEN I RECOMMEND USING PRODUCTS SUCH AS WAXOYL WHICH IF SPRAYED CORRECTLY INTO ALL THE CREVICES WILL GIVE EXCELLENT PROTECTION AND PROLONG THE LIFE OF THE BONNET.

THE ONLY OTHER SOLUTION TO THIS PROBLEM IS TO SOURCE ANOTHER BONNET FROM EITHER ONE OF THE MANY CAPRI SPARES COMPANIES OR BY SEARCHING YOUR LOCAL BREAKERS YARD.

 ON OPENING THE BONNET, CHECK THE SEAMS BETWEEN THE INNER AND OUTER WINGS WHICH IS A NOTORIOUS WEAK SPOT ON CAPRI'S' AS THEY CAN DISINTEGRATE. INSPECT THIS AREAS CLOSELY AND ALSO FEEL UNDERNEATH THE LEDGE TOO BECAUSE THIS IS AN AREA WHICH EVEN KEEN ENTHUSIASTS LARGELY IGNORE. THE FIRST SIGN OF TROUBLE IS RUST ON THE HORIZONTAL LEDGES ALONG THE TOP OF THE WINGS.

REMEMBER THAT CAPRI WINGS ARE WELDED ON, THEREFORE IF EXCESSIVE RUST HAS SET IN ON THIS AREA THEN A REPLACEMENT MAY NEED TO BE FITTED WHICH REQUIRES GREAT CARE AND ALSO CAN BE VERY EXPENSIVE.

 CHECK THE STRUCTURE SUPPORTING THE McPherson STRUTS. THERE SHOULD BE NO SIGN OF BUBBLING METAL, HOLES OR FILLER ANYWHERE NEAR THE 3-STRUT MOUNTING BOLTS, AND IDEALLY, NO SIGN OF PAST REPAIRS. HOWEVER, PLATING IS ALLOWED PROVIDED IT HAS BEEN CARRIED OUT CORRECTLY WITH A CORRECTLY SHAPED REPAIR PANEL AND CONTINUOUS WELDING.

NOTE THAT TACK-WELDING, RIVETS AND SELF-TAPPERS ARE DEFINITELY NOT ALLOWED.

FOR PEACE OF MIND, OBTAIN A THIN SCREW DRIVER AND PRESS THE METAL TO CHECK IF THE AREA IS WEAK. ONCE YOU ARE COMPLETELY SATISFIED THAT EVERYTHING SEEMS TO BE INTACT, NOW IS THE TIME TO CHECK UNDERNEATH.

 USING A TORCH CHECK TO SEE IF THERE HAVE BEEN ANY REPAIRS CARRIED OUT HERE TOO. THIS WILL ENABLE YOU TO SEE WHETHER ANY PREVIOUS REPAIRS HAVE SIMPLY BEEN PATCHED OVER EXISTING RUST AND WILL ALSO ENABLE YOU TO CHECK THAT THE VITAL STRUT-TURRET STRENGTHENING WEBS ARE STILL INTACT.

ALSO CHECK OUT WHAT YOU CAN OF THE INNER WING AND LOOK TO SEE IF THERE IS LARGE DEPOSITS OF DIRT TRAPPED AT THE BACK OF THE FRONT WHEEL ARCH.

IT IS ALSO ADVISABLE TO JACK THE CAR UP AND TEST FOR ANY PLAY IN THE SUSPENSION OR STEERING BY GIVING THE WHEELS A GOOD WIGGLE. IF THERE IS SOME PLAY THEN IT COULD BE A WORN WHEEL BEARING OR SIMPLY A WHEEL BEARING NEEDING TIGHTENED UP, BALL JOINT PLAY OR A TIRED STEERING RACK.

I DON'T KNOW IF ANY OF YOU HAVE EVER HAD ANY EXPERIENCE OF A WHEEL BEARING SHATTERING AT SPEED, WELL UNFORTUNATELY I HAVE AS IT HAPPENED TO ME ON A MOTORWAY. THERE WAS NO PRIOR WARNING SUCH AS NOISE OR VIBRATION IT SIMPLY LET GO AND LUCKILY ENOUGH THERE WAS NO CAR IN THE ADJACENT LANE AS THE CAR PULLED VIOLENTLY TO THE INSIDE. SO FOR SAFETY SAKE IT IS WORTH TESTING.

 HAVE A LOOK AT THE HEADLAMP AREA AROUND THE OVERHANG OF THE FRONT WING AND ALSO LOOK AT THE LOWER FRONT VALANCE. FRONT WINGS RUST BADLY AT HERE AND ALSO AT THE REAR OF THE FRONT WHEEL ARCH WHERE MUD HAS BEEN ALLOWED TO ACCUMULATE AND HOLD MOISTURE AGAINST THE METALWORK. ALSO FEEL UNDER THE OVERHANG OF THE FRONT WING BECAUSE RUST IS NOTORIOUSLY FOUND HERE AND, OVER TIME, EVENTUALLY WORKS IT WAY THROUGH TO THE SURFACE CAUSING VERY UNSIGHTLY BLISTERING AND, IN CERTAIN CASES, DISINTEGRATING COMPLETELY.

IN CERTAIN CASES, REPAIRS CAN BE CARRIED OUT BY SKILLED TRADESMEN BUT IN MOST CASES THE CORRECT COURSE OF ACTION WILL BE THE PURCHASE OF A NEW FRONT WING.

 WITH THE BONNET OPEN, REMOVE THE HEADLAMP COVER PLATE AND, USING A TORCH, CHECK TO SEE HOW WELL THIS AREA IS STANDING UP AGAINST CORROSION BECAUSE WATER AND DIRT CAN LIE HERE UNDETECTED ESPECIALLY IF THE DRAIN HOLE GETS BLOCKED RESULTING IN SEVERE DAMAGE.

TO GET A PROPER LOOK AT THIS AREA YOU MUST REMOVE THE HEADLAMP UNITS COMPLETELY BY REMOVING THE FOUR RETAINING SCREWS. ONCE REMOVED, EXAMINE THE WHOLE AREA THOROUGHLY CHECKING FOR EARLY SIGNS OF TROUBLE. I WOULD RECOMMEND THAT ONCE THE OFFENDING RUST HAS BEEN REMOVED GIVE THE AFFECTED AREA A GOOD COATING OF HAMMERITE PAINT FOR EXTRA PROTECTION.

 WHILE IN THIS POSITION CHECK THE CONDITION OF THE FRONT BUMPER. CAPRI BUMPERS, UNLIKE MODERN CARS ARE METAL NOT PLASTIC, SO ARE PRONE TO RUST AND DENTS.

I'VE FOUND THAT TRYING TO REMOVE A FRONT BUMPER CAN BE DIFFICULT BECAUSE THE NUTS SEIZE UP OVER TIME MAKING REMOVAL A NIGHTMARE SO MUCH SO THAT THE SLOTS ON THE BUMPER CAN BECOME ROUNDED WHEN ATTEMPTING TO SLACKEN OFF, MAKING REMOVAL VIRTUALLY IMPOSSIBLE RESULTING IN YOU HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOLTS LOCATED UNDER THE FRONT WHEEL ARCH.

 EXAMINE THE DOORS CAREFULLY, ESPECIALLY THE BOTTOM OF THE DOORS AS ROT TRAVELS UPWARDS FROM THE LOWER EDGES CAUSED MAINLY BY THE DRAIN HOLES BEING BLOCKED. EXCESSIVE RUST WILL EVENTUALLY CAUSE THIS WHOLE AREA TO HOLE BADLY AND ULTIMATELY THE BEST COURSE OF ACTION IS TO SOURCE A REPLACEMENT DOOR. ALSO CHECK THE UNDERNEATH SECTION OF THE DOOR WITH YOUR FINGERS BECAUSE IT IS NOT UNKNOWN FOR THE METALWORK TO DISINTEGRATE HERE TOO.

 SPECIAL ATTENTION SHOULD BE PAYED TO THE CORNER OF THE DOOR WHICH IS A TROUBLESOME AREA ON EVEN SOME GOOD EXAMPLES. THE EXAMPLE OPPOSITE SHOWS THAT ONCE CORROSION FIRMLY SETS IN, THEN EVENTUALLY THE WHOLE AFFECTED AREA WILL WEAKEN TO THE POINT THAT IT WILL SIMPLY BREAK OFF.

NOTE THAT THE REMOVAL OF CAPRI DOORS CAN BE PARTICULARLY DIFFICULT AS GAINING ACCESS TO THE NUTS SECURING THE TOP HINGE ESPECIALLY IS NOT TOO EASY AND REMEMBER IF YOU ARE REMOVING A DOOR GET SOMEONE TO HELP BECAUSE CAPRI DOORS WEIGH A TON!

 STAYING AROUND THE DOOR AREA, CHECK THE CONDITION OF THE DOOR PILLARS AS THIS IS A COMMON AREA FOR CORROSION TO GAIN A FOOTHOLD. MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE THE DOOR OPEN FULLY AND CHECK USING A SMALL SCREWDRIVER THAT THE METAL IS NOT WEAK. IT IS AN AREA WELL KNOWN FOR SHODDY REPAIR WORK.

CHECK ALSO THE DOOR HINGE AREA TOO BECAUSE IF THE METAL IS WEAK THEN THE HEAVY CAPRI DOORS WILL EVENTUALLY BREAK FREE. CHECK ALSO THAT THE DOORS ARE NOT SAGGING BY GENTLY MOVING UP AND DOWN TO SEE IF THERE IS ANY PLAY AND ALSO MAKE SURE THAT THEY CLOSE PROPERLY. SOMETIMES DIFFICULTIES CAN ARISE DUE TO A WORN STRIKER PLATE.

 NEXT AREA THAT REQUIRES INSPECTION IS THE REAR WHEEL ARCHES AND THE BOTTOM OF THE REAR WING. THIS IS A WELL-KNOWN PROBLEM AREA ON CAPRI'S' REGARDLESS OF WHETHER THEY HAVE BEEN WELL-LOOKED AFTER OR NOT. AS REGARDS THE WHEELARCHES, THE ONSET OF CORROSION IS USUALLY DEFINED BY BLISTERING WHICH EVENTUALLY LEADS TO UNSIGHTLY RUST PATCHES AND HOLES FORMING.

ALSO CHECK THAT IF THE INNER ARCHES HAVE SEPARATED FROM THE OUTER SECTIONS, THEN WATER, MUD, SALT AND RUST CAN WORM THERE WAY FURTHER INTO THE BODYWORK. IF THE WHEELARCHES ARE IN A POOR CONDITION THEN YOU CAN PURCHASE REPLACEMENT PARTS WHICH CAN BE FITTED BY EXPERTS. TO DO THIS PROPERLY REQUIRES THE REMOVAL OF THE EXISTING PANEL AND WELDING ON THE NEW PART AND BLENDING IN SO THAT THERE IS NO SIGN OF ANY JOINS ETC.

 THE BOTTOM EDGES OF THE REAR WINGS, BEHIND THE WHEELS AND UNDERNEATH THE BUMPER END CAPS, ALSO REQUIRE TO BE CAREFULLY LOOKED AT. IT IS NOT UNCOMMON FOR THE LOWER EDGES TO BREAK OFF COMPLETELY. THIS IS ESPECIALLY TRUE OF THE NEAR SIDE WHERE THE CLOSE PROXIMATELY OF THE TAIL SECTION OF THE EXHAUST TO THE BODYWORK DOES NOT ALLOW PROPER ACCESS TO CLEAR THE BUILD UP OF MUD, SALT ETC RESULTING IN THE PREMATURE DISINTEGRATION OF METALWORK.

I SUFFERED THIS PROBLEM ON MY FIRST CAPRI AND DESPITE TRYING TO PATCH UP THE OFFENDING SECTION IT EVENTUALLY BROKE OFF COMPLETELY IN MY HAND. ONCE AGAIN, THE WHEEL ARCH REPLACEMENT SECTION WILL COVER THIS AREA UP TO A POINT BUT IF THE PROBLEM IS EXCESSIVE THEN A REPLACEMENT SECTION WILL BE REQUIRED.

PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE INNER AND OUTER SILL AREAS WHICH ARE PRIME CANDIDATES FOR DISINTEGRATION. CHECK THE FULL LENGTH OF THE OUTER SILL BY TAPPING LIGHTLY WITH THE BACK OF A SCREWDRIVER OR BRING A MAGNET WITH YOU AND CHECK THAT IT IS METAL YOU ARE DEALING WITH OR WHETHER IT IS GOOD, OLD-FASHIONED FILLER. MY FIRST CAPRI, WHICH I OWNED FOR 12 YEARS EVENTUALLY NEEDED NEW SILLS FITTED BUT I WAS NEVER HAPPY WITH THE STANDARD OF WORKMANSHIP CARRIED OUT AS THE WELDS STOOD OUT LIKE A SORE THUMB.

REMEMBER THAT IF YOU DO GET A NEW OUTER SILL FITTED REMEMBER THAT IT HAS TO BE A CONTINUOUS SEAM WELD - NOT TACK WELDS!

 WHILE AT THE REAR END OF THE CAR CHECK THE CHASSIS ADJACENT TO THE REAR WHEELS. THIS AREA CAN RUST BADLY, SO EXAMINE ALONG THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF EACH BEAM. AT THIS POINT ALSO CHECK TO SEE THAT THE RUBBER BUMPSTOP IS STILL IN PLACE. THIS ITEM WAS SOMETHING THAT I DIDN'T GIVE MUCH THOUGHT TO UNTIL MY CAR FAILED ITS MOT BECAUSE THE OFFENDING ITEM HAD FALLEN OFF AND SUBSEQUENTLY A REPLACEMENT WAS REQUIRED.

NOTE THAT TRYING TO REMOVE THE ORIGINAL PLATE TO WHICH THE BUMPSTOP WAS ATTACHED WAS A NIGHTMARE AS THE BOLTS WERE IMPOSSIBLE TO MOVE. THE ONLY SOLUTION WAS TO DRILL OUT THE OFFENDING PARTS.

IT IS ALSO WORTHWHILE LOOKING AT THE SPRINGS WHICH CAN BE EITHER SINGLE LEAF OR MULTI-LEAF. CHECK HOW WELL THE CAR SITS ON THE ROAD. IF IT LOOKS BOTTOM HEAVY THEN IT IS MORE THAN LIKELY THAT YOU WILL REQUIRE NEW SPRINGS WHICH ARE FAIRLY EXPENSIVE TO BUY.

 CONCENTRATING ON THE REAR END OF THE CAR, THERE ARE SEVERAL AREAS TO LOOK AT. THE REAR BUMPER, LIKE THE FRONT, CAN SUFFER BADLY FROM CORROSION AND DENTS. FURTHERMORE TRYING TO REMOVE THE BUMPER FROM ITS BRACKETS IS VIRTUALLY IMPOSSIBLE DUE TO THE BOLTS SEIZING. REMOVAL OF THE OVERRIDERS SUFFERS A SIMILAR FATE, AS DOES REMOVING THE END CAPS FROM THEIR BRACKETS.

I DON'T KNOW ABOUT OTHER OWNERS BUT IN ALL MY TIME TRAVELLING ROUND SCRAP YARDS I HAVE NEVER FOUND A REAR BUMPER IN GOOD CONDITION, SO IF YOU FIND ONE GRAB IT.

THE LOWER EDGES OF THE TAILGATE ARE PARTICULARLY RUST PRONE ON POORLY MAINTAINED VEHICLES BUT PARTICULAR CARE SHOULD BE GIVEN TO THE ROOF SECTION AROUND THE TAILGATE HINGES. THIS AREA IS PARTICULARLY DIFFICULT TO REPAIR PROPERLY AND NEATLY. WITH THE TAILGATE UP, CHECK THE STRENGTH OF THE STRUTS BECAUSE THROUGH TIME THE GAS FILLED STRUTS WEAKEN AND EVENTUALLY NEED REPLACED. NOTE THAT THE STRUTS ARE DIFFERENT ON EARLY AND LATER MARK 3 MODELS.

WITH THE TAILGATE UP CHECK THE CONDITION OF THE BOOT FLOOR ESPECIALLY UNDER THE SPARE WHEEL WHERE WATER CAN GATHER RESULTING IN SERIOUS CORROSION AND HOLES FORMING.

MOVING ON TO THE INTERIOR OF THE CAR, IF ORIGINALITY IS YOUR THING THEN YOU MUST PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE SEATS AND CARPETS. THE DRIVER'S SEAT OBVIOUSLY SEES GREATER TRAFFIC SO YOU SHOULD EXAMINE FOR EXCESSIVE WEAR ON THE SIDE BOLSTER CUSHIONS AND THE SEAT COVERING.

IT IS NOT TO DIFFICULT, AT THE MOMENT AT LEAST FOR LASER OWNERS, TO FIND REASONABLY GOOD LASER INTERIORS BUT IF YOU OWN AN "INJECTION", "GHIA" OR "S" MODEL THEN SOURCING THE CORRECT SEATING COULD PROVIDE A SERIOUS HEADACHE.

REMEMBER TO CHECK THE STATE OF THE CARPETS TO SEE IF THERE COULD BE A PROBLEM WITH WATERLEAKS, DAMPNESS ETC AND NOTE THE CONDITION OF THE RUBBER ON THE FOOT PEDALS. IF THE CAR CLAIMS TO BE LOW MILEAGE AND THE RUBBER IS SERIOUSLY WORN THEN BEWARE!

 IF YOU GET THE OPPORTUNITY LIFT OUT THE REAR SEAT (NOT A DIFFICULT JOB) TO CHECK THE CONDITION OF THE FLOOR ESPECIALLY THE REAR FOOTWELL BECAUSE THIS IS A NOTORIOUS WATER TRAP. ALSO CHECK AS MUCH OF THE FLOOR COVERING AS YOU CAN TO ENSURE THAT NOT ONLY IS THE FLOORPAN ITSELF STILL SOUND BUT ALSO THAT THE METAL DIRECTLY ABOVE THE 'U'-SECTION STRENGTHENING CHANNELS HASN'T ROTTED AWAY.

THE FRONT FOOTWELL AREA IS ALSO KNOWN TO ROT BADLY. MY FIRST CAPRI NEEDED EXTENSIVE WELDING IN THIS AREA BUT DUE TO THE LACK OF "STRONG" METAL IN THE VACINITY I WAS ULTIMATELY FIGHTING A LOSING BATTLE AND WAS EFFECTIVELY SPREADING THE PROBLEM. THE ORETICALLY, THE MONEY IT COST ME COULD HAVE BEEN BETTER SPENT PUT TOWARDS ANOTHER VEHICLE BUT, AS HAPPENS, 'SENTIMENT' CREPT IN.

 ANOTHER AREA WHICH SHOULD NOT BE IGNORED IS THE CONDITION OF THE RADIATOR. 

HOWEVER IF THE RADIATOR LOOKS HEALTHY IT IS ADVISABLE TO UNSCREW THE CAP AND CHECK THE COOLING FLUID. IF THE FLUID RESEMBLES BROWN "GRAVY" INSTEAD OF "TRADITIONAL" WATER THEN THE ENTIRE SYSTEM NEEDS DRAINING, BACK FLUSHING WITH A HOSE AND REFILLING WITH CLEAN WATER/ANTIFREEZE MIX.

FINALLY, RETURNING TO THE STRUCTURE OF THE CAR CHECK THE JACKING POINTS. SIMPLY DO THIS BY GETTING THE JACK OUT AND INSERTING IT AT THE CORRECT POINT. AGAIN, USING MY OLD CAR AS AN EXAMPLE, THE JACKING POINTS WERE USELESS AND INSTEAD OF LIFTING THE CAR IT ENDED UP BENDING THE SILL. FROM THIS POINT ON, I'VE ALWAYS KEPT A TROLLEY JACK IN THE CAR WHICH I FIND A LOT EASIER AND SAFER TO USE.

I HOPE THE INFORMATION CONTAINED ON THIS PAGE HAS BEEN OF INTEREST AND WILL ASSIST ANY INDIVIDUAL CONSIDERING THE PURCHASE OF A FORD CAPRI. ALTHOUGH THE BASIS FOR THE FAULT FINDING CONCENTRATED ON THE MARK 3 MODEL IT IS STILL RELEVANT TOWARDS THE Mk 1 & 2 AS THE FLOORPAN AND MUCH OF THE MECHANICS ARE THE SAME, WITH THE Mk 3 BODYSHELL BASICALLY A FACELIFTED Mk 2.

THIS IS BY NO MEANS A FULL ACCOUNT OF "POTENTIAL" PITFALLS. OTHER AREAS WHICH REQUIRE ATTENTION INCLUDE THE CONDITION OF THE SHOCK ABSORBERS, BRAKE PADS, DISCS, CALIPERS, REAR WHEEL CYLINDERS, THE CONDITION OF THE SPARK PLUGS (WHICH SHOULD BE LIGHT BROWNISH-GREY IN COLOUR) AND THE OVERALL CONDITION OF THE ENGINE. HOWEVER IF THE AREAS OF CONCERN, HIGHLIGHTED ABOVE, HAVE SUCCESSFULLY MET WITH YOUR APPROVAL THEN IT IS SAFE TO SAY THAT THE VEHICLE YOU HAVE EXAMINED HAS BEEN WELL LOOKED AFTER BY ITS PREVIOUS OWNER(S) AND SHOULD ALLOW YOU TO REST EASY AND LOOK FORWARD TO ENJOYING YOUR FORD CAPRI - "THE CAR YOU ALWAYS PROMISED YOURSELF".